Tishie's Travels: Our Top 5 Bali Restos

...and I use the term "restos" loosely here. A couple of them are actually warungs, or food stalls. We ate at a lot of places during our nearly week-long stay in Bali, and some places were more memorable (or mentionable) than others. Our favorites:

5. Made's Warung II
Jl Raya Seminyak, www.madeswarung.com

For our first meal, we walked from Bonsai Villas to Made's Warung II, the Seminyak branch of popular Kuta eatery, Made's Warung. According to our (more often than not) trusty Lonely Planet guide, Made's was the original warung in Kuta, and it supposedly has a much-imitated Westernised Indonesian menu. Its Seminyak sister is in a courtyard, with a few shops by the seating area. I gotta admit, I expected a warung to look more...rustic. The place looked a lot like our local grills (think Grilla or Congo Grille without any of the monkey-themed decor), and had really speedy service.

I didn't want anything too heavy so I just had the chicken sate...

...while hungry Hamil had the ribs in young papaya.

I kind of expected it to be cheaper, but maybe that's because I'm a bit of a cheapskate. Har. Still, I had no complaints. At least the servings weren't teeny. A pretty satisfying first meal.

4. Warung Ibu Oka
Jl Suweta, Ubud

I first read about Bali's babi guling (roast suckling pig) here. Ever since, I told myself that I would have me some of that if I ever found myself in Bali. I had the privilege of having lunch with Anonymous Paul, and his face pretty much lit up as he raved about this popular Bali dish.

Our guidebook recommended Warung Ibu Oka, which was right outside the Ubud Palace. On our second day in Ubud, we headed there for an early lunch, to avoid the crowds that both Anon Paul and our guidebook mentioned.

Now, I'm not a lechon person. Filipinos mark fiestas and special occasions with a nice roast pig, and get all excited when they see the pile of meat and skin on a buffet table. But to be honest, I normally skip it and opt for other heart attack-inducing Pinoy treats. Not a big fan. During our trip, I just wanted to try something distinctly Balinese, and I wanted to be able to compare it with our local lechon.

Well, it kind of looked the same as our own lechon.

But it wasn't. The babi guling meat was tender, the skin crispy with an ever-so-thin layer of fat. And the whole thing was flavored with herbs and spices, and served with rice and veggies. At the risk of sounding unpatriotic, I gotta say that I enjoyed this much more than any local lechon I've ever had. Although a side of Mang Tomas would have made it even better!

3. Rumours
Jl Oberoi 100

It was our fourth day in Bali, and after having nasi goreng for the nth time, I really wanted some Western food. I had a hankering for some really meaty spaghetti bolognese, and I got exactly what I wanted at Rumours on Eat Street, about a 15-minute walk from our beloved Uma Sapna.

That really hit the spot! I also loved their vanilla-flavored iced tea. (On the very sweet side, but I didn't get follicular pharyngitis for no reason...) I've read that the place is popular because of its steaks, but on this visit, Hamil had some hearty beef dish with a side of mashed potatoes and veggies.

My husband remarked that it was exactly the kind of restaurant he would want to have in Manila--it was laidback, had good music and beer, and served yummy and very reasonably priced food. (We looked at quite a few menus on that street, and this one seemed to be the cheapest.) We loved it so much that we went back the next day!

2. Ku De Ta
Jl Laksmana, www.kudeta.net

Every frickin' Bali guide mentions this beachfront bar/lounge/restaurant, and many of them also warn about the price. (The Frommer's guide lists it under "very expensive.") It's very chic, with a low, open structure surrounding a courtyard, sexy lighting, and loungers outside with a view of the beach (it's lit from the shore so you can still see the waves in the evening).

For starters, we had some braised wagyu burgundy pie, lit by sexy lighting.

Then I had mushroom risotto. Yummers, but I wouldn't call it the best risotto ever.

Hamil had lamb, which I didn't eat much of since I don't really like lamb. (All worked out in Hamil's favor.)

At the end of it, we just closed our eyes as we handed over our credit card savored the experience--because, while they do serve great quality food, what you're really paying for here is the privilege of hanging at one of Bali's iconic spots.

1. Warung Yogya
Jl Padma Utara, Legian

You read right--Ku De Ta isn't number one on my list. That distinction doesn't go to the most expensive meal that we had in Bali, but to the cheapest! (I did mention earlier that I'm a cheapskate!) After Hamil went surfing, we walked around Legian/Kuta, consulting various maps, looking for Warung Yogya (pronounced "Jogja"). I gave my Bahasa a test run by saying "Saya cari Warung Yogya," ("I'm looking for Warung Yogya") and was so successful at it that the locals proceeded to give me directions in Bahasa. Ah. We just followed their hand movements and eventually found the place.

Warung Yogya is exactly like the warungs I had in my head--carinderia-like, with inexpensive food. Seeing the prices on the menu, I kind of expected sad plates of day-old food to be served. I was pleasantly surprised to get the plates of awesomeness that were set before us. We went all local and ordered the nasi campur (a rice dish with peanuts and curried veggies and/or meat)...

...and, of course, nasi goreng (fried rice with meat).

This abso-effin'-lutely delicious meal for two plus our drinks set us back about P200 (less than $5)! Aaaah! I would've eaten there again and again if only it were more accessible from our villas.

So there you have it, our top five picks for the best eats in Bali, and the last of my Bali posts!

Kiss #6: Bungee Jumping!

"It's so scary!" the girl on the ledge kept telling us in this apologetic tone, probably worried that we were getting impatient for our turn. We kept reassuring her that it was OK--who were we to judge? For all we knew, we would panic when our moment came to exhibit that we were at least one part crazy.

We were at AJ Hackett in Kuta, Bali, standing on a platform, awaiting our turn to jump. When we were figuring out our honeymoon itinerary, we were dead-set on making a tandem bungee jump a part of our trip. It was $185 for a few adrenalin-pumping seconds, but what the heck!

While we were waiting to get strapped onto the bungee cords, Hamil and I discussed our tactic: No hesitation. Just do it. "The longer you wait, the harder it's gonna be," he reasoned.

So after the girl jumped, we made our way to the prep area, where they double checked our weight--we had to step on a scale before heading up to the ledge, and our weights were written in bold black marker on the backs of our hands. "It's like adding insult to...to..." I began, when I was recounting the experience to a friend. "To possible injury?" he offered. Yeah, it wasn't enough that we were risking peeing in our pants while jumping off a platform 45 meters from the ground, but I also had to be reminded that I'd gained six kilos since being a cheerleader! Sigh.

We sat on the mat, where the crew proceeded to wrap our ankles in folded towels, and strap on the harnesses and bungee cords. They explained that one arm should go behind the partner's back, holding tightly onto the harness on his or her side. The other arm was free--to flail, hug, or do a fist pump while we plummeted.

As we inched our way to the ledge, Hamil let out a swear word. And if my heart was pounding even before we went up the tower, now it was pounding so hard that I didn't even hear the music blaring over the loudspeaker. We heard the crew do the countdown:

"Five..."

"Four..."

"Three..."

"Two..."

"One!"

Make your own animation

AAAAAHHH!!!

That was INSANE!

The plan was for me and Hamil to kiss on our way down, but if you look at that photo, we're kissing while we're on the ledge. The minute we step into nothingness, I've still got my lips puckered, but Hamil has started screaming! (He only screamed once; I, on the other hand, screamed at every drop, recoil, and subsequent drop!)

Money shot

I can't describe the fear that grips your heart once you feel gravity's awesome power, and see the ground and water below rushing at you in a second. Thank goodness I peed beforehand. (OK TMI, but you seriously should go to the bathroom before you attempt this!)

Once it was all over, we lay on a mattress as the straps were being removed. Only then did I notice that I was still gripping tightly onto Hamil's waist harness. And only then did I realize that a very appropriate song was playing in the background: Aerosmith's "Crazy"!

In the words of Git Fresh, I think I need a cigarette. And I don't even smoke.

For our efforts, we got a shirt, a certificate...

It's a Certificate of Borderline Insanity. Seriously, that's what it says!

...and a kiss that's one for the books!

Bali High: Tishie and Hamil's Travelogue

My bikini from Cocomo, hat from Kultura Filipino

Day 1

We arrived late afternoon then checked into Bonsai Villas before having dinner at the popular Made's Warung II (more on that in a future post).

After polishing off our first Balinese meal. Burp.

Our version of a nightcap: a massage at Chill Reflexology (Jl. Kunti, Seminyak), as recommended by our trusty travel guide. We signed up for the Chill Out massage (a full-body massage, clothes on) and were surprised when two male massage therapists came out. Travel guide failed to mention this crucial point. Suffice it to say that Hamil wasn't entirely relaxed.

Day 2
Went on a 30-minute walk to Seminyak Beach, where Hamil met surf instructor Andy.

The two-hour, one-on-one session cost about $20 (versus the more known schools' $45). My cam-whoring session while relaxing by the beach? Free.

(P.S. If you haven't heard why I don't surf, you could dig up an old issue of Reader's Digest that published the whole story. It was called "Surf's Up," alternately titled "The Day I Wore a Too-Tight Purple Wetsuit, Paddled Myself to Near-Death, Tried to Surf in Freezing California Waters, and Slipped and Landed on My Chin.")

After Hamil's surf session, we walked around the neighborhood and ate before heading "home" to chill at the pool, which we had all to ourselves!

Thank goodness for self-timers.

Then we got all dressed up for an evening at Ku De Ta (more in a future post).

Every travel guide I read and a number of previous Bali visitors we talked to recommended this crazy expensive swanky place. Either the place is a favorite of expats, or was just filled with people who read the same travel guides. Still, it was nice being able to experience a night at this Bali gimik institution. (My credit card might have something to say about it though...)

Day 3
Cendana Resort & Spa sent over a car to pick us up from Bonsai. Trip cost us $30--about half what we spent on our room!

After depositing our stuff in our room, we walked to the nearby Sacred Monkey Forest, where Hamil made a new friend.

(Top) I absolutely love this shot! (Above) Monkey's thought bubble: "What the--?"

We then headed to Ubud Palace, home of the local royal family, and tried to blend into a tour group. The guide, however, was speaking in Japanese. So we just took a quick look around. Apparently, palaces in Bali are nowhere near in size to the ones elsewhere around Asia.

After dinner at a cheap little eatery called Song's Kitchen, we headed to Bumi Bali Spa (slash Restaurant slash Cooking School) for another massage.

Day 4
We decided to hire a car for 10 hours. For $50, we got a car (petrol included), an extremely talkative driver, and a nice tour guide named Yoga. No hidden charges! That's a pretty fair price, I think, considering we covered a lot of ground that day. We started off by going to Gunung Kawi in Tampaksiring, which is about an hour north of Ubud, if I'm not mistaken.

Can you tell my husband's not too thrilled about wearing a sarong (a requirement)?

These carvings, cut from solid rock, were quite a sight to see. But there's something the travel guides don't tell you. At this hallowed site, you have this to contend with:

Repeat 30 times. I kid you not.

On our way back to Ubud, we stopped by some rice terraces to ooh and ahh and take a couple of photos.

Back in Ubud, we had lunch at a warung to sample some babi guling (suckling pig--more in a future food post). Then we checked out of Cendana, headed back to Seminyak, and checked into our dreamy villa at Uma Sapna.

After prying ourselves away from the gorgeousness that was our villa, I asked the boys to take us to Balangan Beach. They suggested going to Dreamland instead--once a surfing paradise, and now a highly commercialized spot that's scared all the surfers away. It's been Punta Fuego-ed, with gates and roads and plots of land for sale. I don't remember how much a couple of sun loungers and a big umbrella cost us but, oh, they cost us. (Worth it though, as the sun was scorching that day!) Our local guides described the sand as "white," and while this beach was prettier than Seminyak's (turquoise water and all), it was more...beige, and couldn't really rival the pristine white sands of Boracay. Ah, we beach-spoiled Pinoys are hard to impress. We did get to see (and feel) some huge 10-foot waves though!

After changing into dry clothes, we hopped back into our car and drove to Ulu Watu. Yoga led us down a path away from the temple. When I asked him where everyone else was going, he replied, "Others are too lazy to walk here. But there's a very nice view."

Dude was right.

We had the option to stay at the temple for about half an hour longer to catch the sunset and an hour-long traditional dance, but we felt it was best to head back.

After saying goodbye to Yoga and his sidekick, we freshened up then walked to Rumours, a restaurant along Boutique Street. (Again, more in a future food post!)

Day 5
We got our 15-minute complimentary massage (ahhhh!) before heading out for the highlight of the day: one of our hundred kisses. Keep checking back for that post! (You wouldn't want to miss it!)

After the adrenaline rush we got, we decided to walk it off. "Let's walk for an hour," said Hamil. I initially balked at the idea, but 1) walking, I found, is so much less of a chore than running what would have been a 10K not-so-fun run, and 2) the company was great! So on we walked, with the crowds getting thicker as we crossed the invisible lines from Seminyak to Legian to Kuta Beach. Walk for an hour we did--until we walked right off the beach and straight into a McDonald's!

A triple cheeseburger. Because there's only so much Nasi Goreng one can have.

We walked a bit more around Kuta, which was pretty busy--speeding motorcycles zooming through narrow streets, barefoot and bare-chested surfer dudes strolling around with beer in hand. Hamil bought a couple of the oh-so-popular Bintang shirts before we stopped over at the Memorial to say a little prayer.

We took a cab back to our home base before again having dinner at Rumours. (What can I say? Hamil loved the place.)

Day 6
We spent the last few hours at La Casa de Awesome, savoring the villa we had to say goodbye to too soon.

Bali High: Homes, Sweet Homes

During our five-night Bali honeymoon, we stayed at a grand total of three places: a resort in Ubud and two villas in Seminyak. For the first three nights, we chose moderately priced accommodations. But for the last two nights, we opted for something a little more luxurious. (This was honeymoon, after all!) And it was worth every rupiah!

Bonsai Villas
Jl Raya Seminyak Gg Keraton No. 188 Kuta
www.bonsaivillas.com

We wanted the villa experience because, well, there's something about having a small room and sharing a building with a bunch of strangers that seems...unromantic. But we also didn't want to break the bank. We ruled out Kuta, because friends who had been to Bali before described it as "magulo" (chaotic), so we cyber-scouted around Seminyak for a home. At least for two nights.

We found the moderately priced Bonsai Villas, a charming place that I would recommend to anyone who doesn't want to shell out millions of rupiahs on a villa.

Little pond at the entrance

The features:

Just two villas on the property, so you don't bump into a lot of people. And because of this, the staff is so incredibly attentive. They saw us swimming one afternoon and asked if they could get us tea and biscuits. Just because.

A living area, dining area, kitchen, and separate bedroom in the villa. It's pretty much open, with no walls on two sides of the living area--there are bamboo shades to keep out the elements. The bedroom has a flat-screen TV, DVD player, and safe.

(Top) Living and dining area, and kitchen; (above) our bedroom, with its super-cold A/C

A veeery spacious bathroom with open shower, meaning, you get a view of the sky as you take a refreshing shower in the middle of a pocket garden.

A pool shared by the two villas. But since our neighbors were out, we had it all to ourselves one afternoon.

The pool right outside our villa

Other things I loved about it: The stuff in the mini bar cost as much as they did in the supermarket, so Hamil had his fill of Bintang beer. Also, Bonsai is walking distance from the main Seminyak road, where there are a lot of boutiques and places to eat. In fact, quite a number of Lonely Planet suggestions can be found nearby. Owner/manager Rudi also has his own restaurant recommendations printed out and waiting for you in the villa. Thoughtful!

It's a bit of a walk to the beach (about half an hour), but we didn't mind because we got to see a bit of the area. And it was a good way to burn off at least some of the calories from all that Nasi Goreng. If you'd rather not walk, it should be easy to flag down a cab on Seminyak road.

Cendana Resort & Spa
Monkey Forest Road, Ubud
www.cendanaresort-spa.com

On our one night in Ubud, we wanted a cheap place in a good location. We relied heavily on Trip Advisor reviews, and settled on Cendana Resort & Spa. We chose the least expensive room--a standard room which, from what I could tell, was a lot like the pricier rooms but without a TV or a mini bar. With tax and all, we paid just $61! And this comes with breakfast!

The rooms are divided among Balinese-style cottages with ornately carved front doors.

Ours had a canopy bed, the kind of bed I thought of when I imagined "honeymoon." This one was made of bamboo, and were kind of just two beds stuck together--you could feel a lump of bamboo running down the center.

The bathroom had a shower as well as a small bath tub. Hamil's favorite feature at the resort: the saltwater infinity pool! It seemingly runs straight into the rice fields that Ubud is known for.

There's also a regular pool on the property. Service was just OK--I met much friendlier and more helpful people elsewhere. But the location is great, right in the middle of Monkey Forest Road, providing easy access to a lot of sights and restaurants.

Uma Sapna
Jl Drupadi No 20xx Basangkasa, Seminyak
www.coconuthomes.com

We wanted to treat ourselves to a top-end place (defined by our trusty Lonely Planet as a place costing more than $120 a night) on our last two nights in Bali. A friend recommended this little gem, and after some research, we decided to go for it. Four words: I could live here! No, wait--make that five words: I could live here! Sigh.

The guy at the reception area was so friendly and accommodating, and after getting all the check-in requirements out of the way, he ended with, "And we will be giving you a free room upgrade!"

Having read so many glowing reviews on Trip Advisor, I was hoping, hoping, hoping to hear those magic words, the upgrade that many lucky customers were given. And we got it!:) From a one-bedroom spa villa (which means we got a small Jacuzzi-like spa pool) worth $141, we were upgraded to a one-bedroom villa with private pool priced at over $200 a night--at no extra cost!

We were shown around our villa, called Ambon...

That big lounge chair in the corner is a good place to read. That wooden chair at right is part of the breakfast nook where we would have our first meal of the day (included in the package).

Lounge chairs underneath a tree in our little garden, facing our own little pool!

Elegant interiors done up in the tropical modern style. There's a flat-screen TV, DVD player, and safe too.

A spacious bathroom with his-and-hers sinks and this huge-ass tub! Their bath foam was also super bubbly! Yay!

The minute the Uma Sapna staffer left, I did a little happy dance! Hamil and I were so thrilled to be calling this place home for three days. We even got a 15-minute complimentary welcome massage! Ahhhh. I remarked that it was a good thing that we were only staying here for three days--otherwise, we wouldn't have seen much of Bali! We were happy enough just staying in and enjoying our private villa. The bonus: It's walking distance away from Boutique Street, location of Hamil's favorite Bali restaurant (more on that in a future post). While it's a ways away from the beach, it isn't hard to get a cab. Besides, who needs a beach when you've got your own private pool?:D

In case all this gushing hasn't made it obvious, I highly recommend Uma Sapna. Will definitely stay there when we go back!